



The moment when they got both cars stuck in the mud, only AFTER we suggested to use the sturdy, grassy patch on the right side of the tracks. They decided to straight through the middle again...the same hole we'd just gotten out of moments earlier...



When we pulled up to the gate on Saturday, the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) worker couldn’t tell us where the waterfalls were located in the park. This maybe, MAYBE, could’ve been excused if they weren’t the biggest waterfalls in Kenya. Or perhaps if they weren’t one of the 12 things marked on the map we were holding (which had been sold to us by KWS). Either way, that was the start to our visit to Aberdare National Park... real life foreshadowing in action.
We spent Saturday afternoon driving around the southern tip of the park to check out the famous waterfalls. It was well worth the hour and half drive that took us through a bamboo forest, open moorlands, and beautiful, lush valleys. We were shocked to find the waterfall had a 100-meter drop and a viewing platform. We drove home through the beautiful late afternoon sun, had dinner and heard the history of Aberdare National Park (an event which deserves its own blog entry).
We headed out in the morning with plans to explore the western region of the park and then head home by 1:30 pm to get back into Nairobi with plenty of time before nightfall. It probably takes four hours in total to drive around the entire park. Since my roommate would be driving us for the three-hour trip back to Nairobi, I drove us through the park. It was another beautiful drive with various landscapes along the way.
This park in particular is known to be a nightmare in the mud - luckily it hadn’t rained recently…at least not enough to be a problem on the roads in the south of the park. The western region proved to be a bit more difficult. We made it with ease and a little four-wheel drive through some muddy patches and continued until about the fourth muddy patch, which literally stopped us in our tracks. There’s not much like driving, getting stuck in mud, and realizing the car ain’t goin’ nowhere. (10:30 am)
The two-feet deep mud was daunting, but we had no choice, so we strapped on our boots, rolled up our pants, and got to it (three girls and one guy). Despite our valiant efforts for about an hour, the car only went about ten centimeters. Nothing helped. At 11:30 am we called KWS to get us out of the mud. This is where I should’ve gotten out the camera…
My roommate had to speak to at least five different people and explain to each one where we were located.
On the phone with KWS Headquarters at 11:30 am: “Honi Campsite? Ever heard of it? Rhino Bridge? Nope, not that one either? Do you have a map? Okay it’s on the western part of the map, towards the mountain (there is ONE mountain and ONE road leading to it). It’s just after the turnoff…oh NOW you have a map? Okay, so do see the mountain? Now do you see Honi Campsite?....”
On the phone with the people at the park gate: “Oh great, someone is in the park and will come get us? Thank you so much! Can I have the cell number of the guy coming to get us? Oh, you don’t give out personal cell numbers? How do you contact him? Through a radio, okay can you radio him? Well are you sure he’s going to find us? Did you tell him where we’re located? Yes? Okay, tell me where we’re located so I know he knows. Where are we located? No, I’m asking you to tell me…”
A similar situation played out with various characters – KWS, the hotel, the spot we had lunch and a few other randoms. All of them said “yes, yes we’ll call you back” and as you might imagine, we didn’t called back.
An hour later we called KWS Headquarters again:
“Hi, Martha? Oh sorry, is Martha there? She’s not? Okay well we’re stuck in the Park, did she tell you about us? No? Okay, do you know where Honi Campsite is? Rhino Bridge? No not Rhino Ridge, Rhino Bridge. Do you have a map….”
“Hello? Yes, oh great! You’re coming to get us? Wonderful. You’ll be 30-40 minutes? Awesome. “[hangs up the phone and turns to us] “weird that I could hear a roster in the background?”
An hour passes:
“Hello, yes you called an hour ago and said you’d be here in 30-40 minutes. Oh…that wasn’t you? Oh that was the KWS guy but this isn’t his phone? Okay, do you know how to get in touch with him? No. Okay, we’ll try headquarters.”
“Hi, we’re still stuck. Oh, they left ten minutes ago? They told us they left 40 minutes ago. Are you sure they know where they’re going? Do you know where Honi Campsite is?...Wait..did you say what do we need them to bring? We’re stuck in the mud. They’re park rangers. Surely they know what to bring?...”
FINALLY, we hear a truck about 2:45 pm. Thankful that we’ve been rescued, we realize they’re FLYING towards us in a massive safari vehicle, when they slam on the breaks in the slippery grass they fishtail a bit before stopping in front of us. Out pops four men from the cab of the vehicle one of whom is wearing a business suit and smoking a cigarette. The relief quickly fades.
This is getting long so I’ll skip the silly details. As you may have guessed the KWS guys brought no tools…they were getting us out the mud, they’re park rangers and they had NOTHING. They almost got their car stuck in the mud, then later, as we predicted from a mile away, they proceeded to get both our cars stuck in the mud. When we finally got out they had used our towrope, broken it twice, then retied it, then had to use my roommate’s Swiss Army knife to saw off the steel rope from the car.
The comedy of errors continued, though it wasn’t funny. We were racing against time to get out of the park and get back home before dark, but the maps were poorly written and we went down the wrong road several times.
As we left the park at 4:00 pm the car was acting funny. We’d clearly burnt the clutch while trying to get out of the mud. We tried to ignore it. But had to pull into a petrol station before leaving town…THANK GOD! The clutch was destroyed and there was no way we were making it back to Nairobi. By the grace of god, the gas attendant knew a mechanic who was there in minutes as a small crowd of young children and curious passers-by stopped to see why the Mazungus (“white people”) weren’t just getting gas and going back to Nairobi. We made calls to friends, got a nice hotel, and left the mechanic to fix the clutch. In the spirit of the day, I ran out of phone credit and my roommate’s phone ran out of battery. We put her SIM card in my phone, which was brilliant, except that it got stuck in my phone. At that point I gave up and went to sleep. We woke up at 4:30 am and I went in to work around 10:00 am. We left the car in the little town with nice mechanic we hope isn’t driving it to Tanzania right now. Someone is going to pick it up tomorrow.
I thought this would be such a funny story, but in reality it’s not at all. Or perhaps it’s just too recent. Either way, I’m glad I saw the waterfalls cause I’m never going back. So many things could’ve gone wrong that I don’t even want to think about. We made smart decisions and are almost able to laugh about the entire thing, but thankfully I can check the Aberdares off my list. ~EKY V










































